Signature dish from Chen Ji

You arrive at noon and there's already a queue. By one o'clock, not a single table free. That's how it's been for years.

The noodles are hand-pulled in front of you. The portions are so large that four people can't finish three dishes. You leave stuffed for under ten euros.

Students, families, construction workers, tourists who found it on Google — everyone eats here, elbow to elbow, and nobody complains.

"Good, nice, and cheap — the kind you just don't find anymore."